Ok, I'm going to try again with writing regularly. It is now Wednesday and I travelled by train to Braga today. However, backing up a little, I arrived in Porto, Portugal, at approximately 11.15pm Sunday night. Due to the time I was arriving I had already decided to get a taxi from the airport instead of the bus. The accommodation was in an excellent location. Only a couple of blocks from
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One of the main squares in Porto |
the main area of Porto, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage area, half a block from the main shopping/eating street, and 100m from a supermarket. Checking in and out of the accommodation was interesting, as no English was spoken (and no Portuguese), but we eventually got through. One thing I like doing when spending a few days in one place is find a cafe and get to know the staff a little. I chose one on the main square by finding one that an English translation on the menu board outside. I figured if they had English on the board then there should be some basic English spoken by staff. Yes it's cheating, but it makes it so much easier when you are starving or hanging for a coffee. I actually noticed that most of the cafes in Porto don't sell cappuccinos, which is what I drink. Also, I have only seen one type of ATM called multibanco (multibank obviously). So all banks most just use those, and they automatically gave 20s and 10s, YAY! But has a maximum withdrawal of 200 euro, which isn't good when you are travelling and have to pay all the extra bank costs of being overseas each time you take out money. Anyway, just a little tit-bit for you.
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Along the river in Porto |
Porto. It doesn't have the same extreme workmanship in its building (or the gold) as Belgium, or the number of them, however, down by the river makes up for it. The city comes down to the river on a steep slope, and the layering of the buildings looks incredible along the river with the boats (many of them traditional) and the large expanse of the steel bridge that carries trams and pedestrians. That will be one of the photos I attach, but it will do nothing for the actual sight of it when you are there. I like Porto as although it’s Portugal’s 2nd biggest city it is easy to walk around the main tourist sites, as well as the areas for shopping and eating. I must say after the crazy weather in Belgium (hot one day then mad winds and rain the next and then drizzle for the next three, by the way I now have a cold from that) Portugal's weather is great being sunny and sitting around 30 give or take. Unfortunately, it is too hot for most of the clothes and shoes I have so I have had to buy a couple of things and send some stuff home. Oh, before I forget about dogs in Belgium. They are everywhere. They are generally allowed in shops, cafes, trains etc. It’s strange sitting in a restaurant and there is a dog sitting on the seat next to some lady, or some huge dog’s head pops up over the top of the table (they don’t have many big dogs). I have also seen cats but not so often. And I think I told you about Ryanair not having set seats. Well, the reason they are so cheap (on the flights I’ve been on they have been at least 60% cheaper than other airlines, but they are also the crappiest hours) is that they sell everything including fragrances, scratchies and even smokeless cigarettes so people can smoke on the plane and other non-smoking places. There are also other things like you can have a 10kg carry-on bag (with the normal dimensions), but you pay 20 euro for a check-in bag. They also try and sell you priority
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Buildings in Porto |
seating, insurance etc. Also, you have to check in online and print out your boarding pass. If you don’t have that when you arrive you are charged about 45 euro for them to print out another. But hey, if you don’t get caught out with checking all the little boxes and printing things out and being overweight (luggage not you), and don’t mind some of the late or early flights, then it’s cheap and so far I have arrived (one time early) at my destination. Ok, that’s enough raving and tit-bitting for now.
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The Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte |
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Stairs to The Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte |
Sunday 18th. Well, I was in Braga for 3 nights. My location was great, just off the main square, the room was fine, the (share) bathroom was not, and checking in was long and difficulty (no English is fine, but she had absolutely no skills in charades). Braga was ok. It was a nice town with a pretty square with fountains and gardens etc with plenty of cafes, but it just didn’t have that atmosphere. The Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte (the Sanctuary of the Good
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Inside The Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte |
Jesus of the Mount, the main reason I went to Braga as I had seen photos) is on the outskirts of Braga, 5km from the centre. This is definitely worth seeing, with zig-zagging stairs and fountains at each level (it’s on a hill). Inside the church at the top is amazing. I took photos inside but ended up leaving, as although there is no sign saying not to take photos, there is one saying silence. Unfortunately my camera has to beep and whirr and carry on every time it’s turned on or off or whatever. I started getting dirty looks, but I think it was from the more religious people (that’s not very Christian of them). It is a regularly used church.
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The town inside the citadel at Braganca |
I was meant to go to Chaves next by bus. To make a long story short I didn’t go due to mix-ups and stuff-ups and language barriers and the bus office being closed on Saturday when I went to buy the ticket. I decided to take the train back to Porto and see if I could catch the bus from there, but by the time I found the Tourist Office to find out bus times etc I had missed one and was left with catching the 7.30pm bus which arrived at 11pm. Considering I didn’t know how to get to the hotel from the bus, and it was past check in, and I didn’t know what taxis etc were available, I decided not to go. I did phone the hotel, but they only spoke Portuguese and the waiter (at my end) that I got to translate didn’t help me get anywhere as the hotel reception said they were busy and had to go. Anyway, I have stayed in Porto the last couple of days (which I like Porto anyway and I’m right on the main square). Tomorrow I go to Braganca for three nights (three hours on the bus). I have already checked bus times (that arrive during the day thank goodness) and where I am meant to catch it (there are several bus companies at different locations) and how to get to my hotel, so hopefully there will be no problems.
Hi all. It is Thursday 23rd and I am now in Amarante. Braganca wasn’t bad. The citadel incuding a keep was interesting and in good condition. People were living within the citadel walls (not the actual walls, so no smart comments) generally in townhouse type dwellings (those that have been there for a few hundred years or whatever) but some had little yards with chooks and so forth. There was also an old church, some old Roman building (I think to do with council meetings or something, but don’t quote me), a café/restaurant and a couple of museums. I think it would be a pretty cool place to live, kind of like your own special little community.
OK, before I forget here are some tit-bits (you are going to be so sick of my tit-bits, but it’s something I do, I can’t help it. So if you are too busy to read everything, as my emails can get a bit long with my tit-bits and raving, just skim. Anyway, short version. Escalators in Portugal go extremely slow until you step on them then they go faster. The ones at the Belgium train stations don’t go at all until you get on them. Different toilet flushes. On this journey there has been the push down lever in Ireland (which I think we use to have in Australia years ago, when I was very young so I’m not sure), Belgium I can’t remember now, and Portugal there has been turn the knob (like a fancy door handle) and pull up the boring old silver knob. Sorry to those who already know all this.
Amarante. I managed to get to Amarante, by bus, with no hiccups, but I can tell you I nearly threw up. I get really bad motion sickness, and I forgot to take tablets until we were on our way, and then I didn’t have any water to take them. The trip was approx. three hours on really windy road, with a crazy driver who like to go fast along the really windy road. I finally remembered two hours in when I was already really, really not feeling well, that I think the directions for the tablets said you can chew them also. So I did, and by the time they started working, I had 20 minutes of not feeling too bad. Lucky me (sarcasm there), and lucky bus driver and passengers (no sarcasm, they were lucky).
Anyway, I’m in Amarante for a couple of days. The hotel is across the road from the bus and ten minutes walk from the old town centre. I can see a couple of the churches from my balcony. I can see mainly modern buildings from my balcony. Sorry tit-bit while I remember. Portugal is building full on. There are cranes everwhere building new buildings and there is a huge amount of road works. From Villa Real to Braganca it is non-stop road works, building a new highway(s) with huge bridges and a number of roundabouts. That was about two hours driving time on the bus (I took out the stops). The road we were on was already mostly a large highway, but the extensions etc were
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Street in Amarante |
incredible. Oh, yes, Amarante. Looking from my balcony you can see that the town is set in a tight valley, and spreads up the hillsides (with more cranes). Driving from Porto out this way, the whole area is rolling hills, one after the other, with narrow valleys. The further west you go, the rockier (granite) and dryer it becomes, with the hills spreading further apart. Out west reminds me of the New England area where I grew up. To continue, I went walk-about today, up and down the hills along the narrow cobbled streets, dodging horn blowing cars, scampering kitty-cats and puppy-dogs, and women tourists in high heels
postcards, and had coffee next to the beautiful old church. Great location, not so great coffee, so I don’t think it will become my regular for the next couple of days.
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Carved timber panels in the ceiling at the church |
(someone’s going to break an ankle). Anyway, went into the main church near the river (the one I can see from my room), and it is incredible. It has a large amount of painted wood carvings of religious (of course) figures and designs. It’s hard to describe and I tried to take photos but people were praying and not looking happy with the tourists, and like I’ve mentioned before my camera continually makes beeping etc noises when taking photos. Next camera I get will be a stealth camera, set into my glasses perhaps. So anyway, I did the photo thing, bought postcards, and had coffee next to the beautiful old church. Great location, not so great coffee, so I don’t think it will become my regular for the next couple of days.
It’s the next day and I just had to mention an incident at Porto train station when I was waiting to go to Braga. While I was waiting on the platform, suddenly out of nowhere, three teenagers (a girl and two boys) dressed in black suit type outfits and black capes appeared. I actually thought it was some kids playing dress up as Harry Potter, Hermoine and the other one whose name I can’t think of. I then saw another one in Amarante, and thought that was a bit strange and that there must be a school with that as their uniform (Amarante is only about 45 minutes away from Porto). I then remembered hearing or reading since being in Portugal that the author (forgot her name too) was living in Porto when she wrote the first Harry Potter novel, so she must have seen this uniform and used it in her book, because they did seriously look like they belonged with Harry and co. PS I found out that the students in black are from the local university.
I like the everyday things; Sitting at a café people watching, going on the local bus, shopping at the minimarket, speaking of minimarkets. I went to the shop to get a couple of things and while I was standing in line the two people ahead of me were talking to the shop assistant on the checkout. I don’t know what they were talking about but it must have been interesting as the smiled at me and winked regarding something that was said, and she gave a demonstration of (and this is a bit of a guess) someone pushing her head against the bench or flushing in the toilet or something. But that is what I like, the little things that give you a laugh or a connection. I don’t know if she knew I didn’t speak English, but she was very friendly when she served me without going any further than obrigado (thank you) and ciao (goodbye), which is all I would of understood.
Well, I’m back in Porto, and I did have more tit-bits but decided to delete as it was getting a bit long. I still like Porto. With how often I have been here now (3 times) it feels like a 2nd home. Overall, I was a bit disappointed with my trip to Portugal. Not that it was Portugal’s fault. I think Portugal could be great, but you need a car. All those special types of places that I wanted to see (the small villages, the centuries old deserted towns and fortresses) you are not able to get to by bus, and I was not able to find tours that catered for that type of thing. But it has still been good and I have seen some beautiful buildings and have had a few laughs with the locals. I fly out on Tuesday night to Morocco.
One thing that I loved in Portugal was the different tiles on the buildings, the railings, and the window and door frames, so I'm going to put a few photos in for you.
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Porto train station |